I expect like many people in our situation Andrew and I completely retreated into our shells. We accepted fewer and fewer invitations and invited fewer people to spend time “chez nous”. The path to our hermit-like existence was like a slow progressive disease creeping up on us without us realising the impact of what was happening. It felt as though we woke up one morning and realised that the highlight of our social calendar was a visit to see what treasures we could find in Mr Lidl’s wonderful “central isle”. We’ve now turned the corner and, whilst we aren’t the life and soul of any parties, dancing on tables or swinging from the chandeliers (yet????), we are creeping back out from under our stone. We are creating a new, more sociable Canbace life, and, what is more, we’re actually enjoying it.
Who would have thought that after only four weeks we would have seen such a difference in our outlook? So in celebration of our social successes I’d like to share you this month’s highlight, which also gives an insight into what a social life in rural France during the summer look and sound like? [Note from Nicci: no one has a social life in the winter as EVERYONE hibernates!]
Well in our region of France a lot of communal socialising centres around the “night markets”. These seem to be unique to this region: we have friends who live in other parts of France, and whilst they may have an evening soiree when their village is “en fete” they are not the weekly “knees up” that we have here. Within a 30 mile drive we could PARTEE at Monsegur on Wednesdays nights, decide between Duras on Tuesdayor Eymet on Thursday and finish off the week at Leveignac of Friday.
What does a French night market involved, other than the pre-requisite of being held at night? Well every night market provides food: some markets have created a reputation for providing a huge range of very good food, Duras being one of the best. Other night markets concentrate on the quality of their “market stalls” many of the markets priding themselves in the artisanal status of all their stall holders. You can purchase handmade jewellery, bags and cards, or treat yourself to a painting sold to you by the artist.
Finally, there is the music. This often starts with records being played over the sound system: on Friday night the DJ was obviously an Ella Fitzgerald fan which both Andrew and I loved. Then, at about 9pm the live music starts. This may be a solo artist or a band, with or without singers. On Thursday we were serenaded by a five-piece band with two of the musicians playing more than one instrument. The music played is often a strange mix. There’s the French popular music (old and new) where the “new” sounds like something stuck in a second-rate musical from the 1940s. Well to my ears any way. Then there are the French cover versions of song originally sung in English. If you’ve never heard “Dans la jungle, la tranquille jungle, le lion dormt ce soir” you have never lived. Finally, you have English songs sung in English which are usually very good unless the band learnt to words to “Another brick in the wall” by listening to a cover version performed by Kraftwerk. I nearly pee’d my pants at the very strongly German accented “Teacha. leave zoes kidz alonze!” and “All int all, itz juzt anothzer brik in zee vall!”
One of the star attractions is a young (in comparison to us) accordion player called Mickaël Vigneau (Mika V) who was born in a village not far from here. Despite now being an internationally renowned musician, he’s still plays a summer tour during August. When’s he’s on the bill there can be over 3,000 people crammed into the tiny market place of the bastide village. Mmmm an accordion player (in 2018) attracting that size of audience? You must be fibbing. Mickaël is amazing. He mixes very tradition pieces, with cover version of pop music, and then some of his own records. Mickaël is playing at a market sometime next week so hopefully I’ll be able to share my own videos: however, I had found a video to prove that it is possible to “rock” at playing the accordion which is at the end of this blog.
Where there is music, especially of the live variety, there has to be dancing. The Brits get up and do their DAD dancing much to the consternation of the locals. The French have a more structured approach. I’m not quite sure what the technical “term” would be, because although it is not ballroom as in the Foxtrot, Waltz or Quickstep, you can see similarities. The dancing is in “hold” and all the dancers dance the same steps. Levingnac used to be a brilliant example of this, mainly because there was a very good dance teacher and all his pupils would get to the dance floor to show off their new skills. Unfortunately, I think he may have retired since our last visit because the dancing wasn’t as coordinated or as polished as usual. It wasn’t quite murder on the dance floor: however, it was mayhem!
Now for the videos:
This is a night market in rural France
The band playing their first song
Anyone for the Passodoble?
The “la la le la” song (which we now know is called Pena Baiona)
Pena Baiona is often sung at ruby matches …
And also at mass gatherings!
Finally the lovely Mickaël Vigneau rocking the accordion!
Be kind to yourself …
In CANBACE friendship!
If anything I have written resonates I’d love to hear from you in the comments. I appreciate that this can be a difficult subject to speak openly about. If you don’t want me to publish your comment on the website please let me know. I will keep your words private.
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